Year 10 Monday 21/2: The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing
1)Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. First the wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves. The distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave is called the fetch.
2)What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
the wind direction


Question of the Video:
1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
Spilling waves-break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes. The surf (while foam) gently rolls over the front so these waves are god for body surfing
Plunging waves- Break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep. Board riders like these waves because of the tubes they form.
Surging waves- Occur on very steep beaches. The waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. They cause erosion.
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean.
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it Big, huge wave
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
energy is transferred through refraction.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
when you fall into the big huge wave, all you can think of is of your survival.